Curried Lamb’s Kidneys with Peas and Mango

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On Glutinous, Fruity Pearled Wheat

Cooking The Dark Side ...

Kidneys crave an aromatic, mildly fruity sweetness to show off it’s true versatility. Introduce an equally mild ‘soft’ curry (underpinned with a dash of fruity rosé wine to boost the fruitiness and acidity somewhat) as well and the stage is set for an unusual performance. Curried lamb’s kidneys are fast to prepare and is ideal for a quick, yet intimate breakfast with the significant other or a semi elegant dinner with a bevy of deserving best friends. For best results, serve on soft, pearled wheat (fortified with currants and orange peel powder) and in the company of an ice cold, sweet Gewürztraminer.

I consider lamb’s kidneys to be the perfect breakfast for surreptitious lovers and the romantically maddened. They are richly flavoured, small and delicate things – quite unable to withstand the inevitable rigours of full exposure to our daily endeavours. Kidneys should not be rushed into; they deserve languid care and attention to bring out the best in them, ideal for stay-at-home day breakfasts or dinners.

The melodious French name for this recipe is Rognons à la Madras. The original comes from the quaint cookbook “Simca’s Cuisine”: a collection of – mostly – rustic, country style recipes published by Simone Beck (a.k.a Simca) in 1972. Mrs Beck’s original recipe seemed a tad anaemic, so I’ve taken the liberty of ‘improving’ and adapting it somewhat with a South East Asian-ish twist more suited to my maybe peculiar ideas for kidneys.

As an aside: Mrs Beck was the side kick of the towering Julia Child, who – along with Louisette Bertholle – wrote and published the seminal Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volumes I and II,  and possibly forever changed the way Americans view European (and French in particular) cuisine.

Mango is an unusual companion to kidneys (and to most organ meats in general, I’ll admit), but it’s simple, mildly peppery flavour compliments the rich, attention grabbing taste of kidneys quite well. Pugnacious lime juice in turn compliments (and positively liven up) the mango whilst simultaneously tempering the worst of the kidney richness. And if kidneys can be devilled, then they can be curried as well – without falling in at the deep end, off course. Who better then than the flamboyant combination of drowsy, soothing coconut cream and brooding turmeric for a mild, creamy curry?

The trimming and preparing of whole, fresh kidneys were discussed in the Method (Step 7 onwards) section of Martini’d Lamb’s Kidneys.

Recipe yields: 2 Portions

Preparation time: ± 15 minutes

Cooking time: 20 minutes

Difficulty level: Very easy

Ingredients:

Lamb kidneys, washed, halved & trimmed	4
Sunflower / Neutral tasting oil	15ml
Large onion, diced	1
Sunflower oil / Neutral tasting oil	15ml
Chopped garlic	2.5ml
Coconut cream	75ml
Rosé wine, fruity and sweet	45ml
Lime juice	30ml
Spice Mix:
Corn flour	3.5ml
Medium curry powder	2.5ml
Turmeric powder	2.5ml
Salt	2.5ml
Freshly ground black pepper	±1ml
Ripe mango, peeled and rough diced	150g
Frozen garden peas, defrosted	75g

Method:

1. Slice each halved kidney into three sections. Combine in a colander and rinse twice under cold, running water. Set aside to drain.
2. Combine the coconut cream, rosé wine and lime juice in a glass or stainless steel bowl. Set aside until needed.
3. Combine the ingredients for the spice mix in a small bowl, mix well and set aside until needed.
4. Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the kidneys (be careful of hot oil splattering from the pan) and sauté them, turning constantly, for 4 – 5 minutes until they are grayish, stiff and stop sweating pink liquid. Do not allow the kidneys to dry out in the pan. Transfer the kidneys and the pan liquid to a heat proof bowl.
5. In the same pan, add the second portion of oil and the onion. Sauté the onions until they are tender and translucent, approx. 6 – 8 minutes. Add the garlic and stir for a minute, still over the heat.
6. Sprinkle the spice mixture over, reduce the heat to medium low and stir continuously for a minute or so until the spices are fragrant and prominent.
7. Pour in the coconut cream, rosé wine and lime juice mixture. Stir continuously with a stiff wire whisk until the mixture is smooth and starts to thicken. Scrape the pan bottom while whisking to lift all material stuck to the pan surface.
8. Add the kidneys and all the collected juices. Add the peas as well and stir until the curry sauce just starts to simmer. The kidneys and peas should not boil in the sauce, or they will turn tough.
9. Add the diced mango, stir through until the mango is fully incorporated and serve immediately.

Comments:

• The dish needs to be served immediately to prevent the prominent taste of the kidneys from permeating throughout the dish. The charm of this preparation lies in the ability of the kidneys, mango and peas to maintain their individual flavours against the backdrop of the mild, creamy curry sauce before the prominent kidney flavour inexorably starts to gain the field.

Glutinous, Fruity Pearled Wheat:

I adore the sticky, creamy glutinosity (is there such a word?) of hot, boiled wheat: not quite porridge, nor gruel – and if done right – nor stodge. It’s quite similar to mushy peas, but milder in the taste department and sans the flatulent after effects.

“Pearl” (or “pearled’) wheat or barley refers to the mill processing step that removes the tough, fibrous outer hull and inner bran layers of both cereals. This treatment allows the cereal to cook faster and significantly reduces the chewiness of the final dish. Removing the bran as well improves, and subdues, the taste of the cooked cereal. Technically, pearled wheat or barley (although appearing to be still intact kernels) cannot be considered as “whole grain” in the strictest sense of the term.

Pearled wheat or barley can be used interchangeably for this recipe. However, pearled barley may cook faster than wheat. Consult the manufacturer’s instructions on the packet.

Depending on the type of wheat, packaged pearled wheat and barley may look almost the same. The main differences are:

Barley:	Wheat:
Harvested during the warmer periods of the year.	Prefers cooler climates to thrive
Is a major ingredient (as malted barley) of beer brewing.	Primarily used or the manufacture of flour and is a major ingredient of a huge variety of foods.
Has higher fiber content than wheat.	Tends to have a milder taste than barley.

Recipe yields: 2 Portions

Preparation time: ± 60 minutes

Cooking time: 20 minutes

Difficulty level: Very easy!

Ingredients:

Pearled wheat	125g
Water	250ml
Bay leaves	3
Dried cranberry & pitted raisin mixture (1 : 1)	30ml
Orange peel powder	±1.5ml
Salt	1.2ml

Method:

1. Wash the pearled wheat berries in cold, running water until the rinse water runs clear. Transfer to a bowl and cover with clean water. Set aside to soak for 60 minutes.
2. Drain the wheat and transfer to a small sauce pan. Add the water and bay leaves. Simmer over medium heat until all the water is absorbed, approx. 20 minutes. Watch the wheat initially as it boils over easily.
3. When done, turn off the heat and remove the bay leaves. Add the salt, orange peel powder and cranberry & raisin mixture. Stir through, cover and return to the still hot plate for 5 minutes to allow the dried fruit to hydrate somewhat and the orange flavour to permeate. Serve immediately.

© RS Young, 2018

Source:

Simca’s Cuisine; Beck, Simone; Alfred A. Knopf, Inc.; New York; 1972.

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